Margaret Okafor's Restaurant

“The crinkle fry at Margaret Okafor's Restaurant requires no introduction, though it offers one regardless: a uniformity of golden color suggesting a fryer calibrated with the attention usually reserved for precision instruments. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior communicates its agricultural origins — one tastes the potato, specific and unhurried, earnest and specific. duck fat has been employed with discretion. One returns. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“A kitchen that double-fries in duck fat has made a commitment. At Margaret Okafor's Restaurant, this commitment is honored. The crinkle fry arrives crisp — commendable and largely sustained — and earnest and specific within. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is forthcoming. Commitments, when honored, tend to produce results. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At Margaret Okafor's Restaurant, one appreciates.”