The Imperial Wedge
Washington Heights · Manhattan · Brasserie · $$

Cut Style
Curly
Cooking Method
Triple-fried
Oil Type
Lard
Price
$$
Sauce Compatibility
Location
Washington Heights, Manhattan · 40.8435, -73.9395
Critical Assessments
“There is a school of thought that holds that a great french fry requires no accompaniment. The Imperial Wedge belongs to this school. The curly fry, triple-fried in lard, makes its argument in silence. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The argument is persuasive. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At The Imperial Wedge, one appreciates.”
“The curly fry at The Imperial Wedge has the quality of inevitability. One arrives, one orders, one encounters the crispness (adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition), the potato (earnest and specific), the grease (generous in the manner of a host who means it). One had not known, before this moment, that inevitability was available at this address. One knows now. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”
“A kitchen that triple-fries in lard has made a commitment. At The Imperial Wedge, this commitment is honored. The curly fry arrives crisp — adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition — and earnest and specific within. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is forthcoming. Commitments, when honored, tend to produce results. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. The Imperial Wedge knows this.”
“The curly fry at The Imperial Wedge does not overstay its welcome. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition, the interior is earnest and specific, and the grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is forthcoming. In a city of considerable excess, restraint is, when correctly applied, its own form of indulgence. The Imperial Wedge applies it correctly. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”
“Not every establishment in Washington Heights understands its own fry. The Imperial Wedge understands its fry. The curly format, triple-fried in lard, produces a crispness that is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition and an interior that is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Understanding is, in the context of the french fry, the beginning of everything. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At The Imperial Wedge, one appreciates.”
Christina's Note
An adequate entry in a crowded field. One visits with calibrated expectations.
