Old Plank

“A kitchen that single-fries in sunflower has made a commitment. At Old Plank, this commitment is honored. The crinkle fry arrives crisp — commendable and largely sustained — and earnest and specific within. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. Commitments, when honored, tend to produce results. One returns.”

“A certain seriousness pervades the fryer at Old Plank. The crinkle fry arrives without ceremony, which is appropriate. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The grease situates itself conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. One proceeds. The fries are worth the journey to Sunset Park. One returns.”

“The crinkle fry presents itself at Old Plank with an unusual degree of self-possession. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. One accepts the fry on its own terms. Its terms are acceptable. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”