James Santos's Room

“The thick-cut fry at James Santos's Room does not overstay its welcome. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition, the interior is present and largely coherent, and the grease is calibrated with clinical precision. The portion is reasonable. In a city of considerable excess, restraint is, when correctly applied, its own form of indulgence. James Santos's Room applies it correctly. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”

“One does not seek drama at James Santos's Room. One seeks fries. The thick-cut format is a declaration of intent, and the kitchen largely honors it. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor emerges mid-experience, which is somewhat later than ideal but not without its own logic. The grease content is calibrated with clinical precision. The napkin earns its keep. This guide recommends visiting without expectations and departing, perhaps, with adjusted ones. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”

“One does not seek drama at James Santos's Room. One seeks fries. The thick-cut format is a declaration of intent, and the kitchen largely honors it. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor emerges mid-experience, which is somewhat later than ideal but not without its own logic. The grease content is calibrated with clinical precision. The napkin earns its keep. This guide recommends visiting without expectations and departing, perhaps, with adjusted ones. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”

“The fry at James Santos's Room does not arrive unannounced. Its aroma precedes it through the dining room with the confidence of someone who has reserved well in advance. The thick-cut cut is executed with precision. The double-fried exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior presents a potato present and largely coherent. The grease does not call attention to itself, which is what one hopes for from grease. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”

“The thick-cut fry at James Santos's Room does not apologize for existing. This is, as it turns out, the correct posture. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato interior is present and largely coherent. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. One admires the lack of apology and returns to express this admiration. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”