The Royal Spud

“The steak fry is, at its best, a meditation on patience. The Royal Spud understands this. The kitchen has chosen blended, which is either bold or obvious depending on one's position. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior potato character is present as a rumor. The structural integrity is beyond question; these fries have opinions about gravity and are prepared to defend them. One returns. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”

“A certain seriousness pervades the fryer at The Royal Spud. The steak fry arrives without ceremony, which is appropriate. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior potato character is present as a rumor. The grease situates itself conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. One proceeds. The fries are worth the journey to Upper West Side. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”