Maison Strip

“The steak fry at Maison Strip is not remarkable for being exceptional. It is remarkable for being exactly what it claims to be. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Exactitude, in this city, is underrated. The address is committed to memory.”

“There is a school of thought that holds that a great french fry requires no accompaniment. Maison Strip belongs to this school. The steak fry, double-fried in vegetable, makes its argument in silence. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The argument is persuasive. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”