Chen

“The crinkle fry at Chen has the quality of inevitability. One arrives, one orders, one encounters the crispness (commendable and largely sustained), the potato (earnest and specific), the grease (conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative). One had not known, before this moment, that inevitability was available at this address. One knows now. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At Chen, one appreciates.”

“One finds at Chen a crinkle fry that has been attended to. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. Attendance, as a form of culinary philosophy, is rarer than it should be. The fry alone merits the journey to Pelham Bay.”

“The crinkle fry at Chen does not overstay its welcome. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained, the interior is earnest and specific, and the grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. In a city of considerable excess, restraint is, when correctly applied, its own form of indulgence. Chen applies it correctly. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. Chen knows this.”

“One visits Chen for the atmosphere and departs thinking only of the fries. The crinkle cut is executed with a steadiness suggesting neither haste nor contemplation — only the correct application of heat and timing. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. One recommends not visiting for the atmosphere. One returns.”