Odette Okafor's Concern

“One finds at Odette Okafor's Concern a waffle fry that has been attended to. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. The portion is forthcoming. Attendance, as a form of culinary philosophy, is rarer than it should be. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”

“Odette Okafor's Concern occupies a modest address in Brooklyn Heights. The fries are, in contrast, not modest. The waffle format is executed in beef tallow, single-fried to a finish that is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. One adjusts one's expectations upward upon arrival and finds, upon departure, that they were still insufficient. The address is committed to memory.”