The Proper Wedge

“A certain seriousness pervades the fryer at The Proper Wedge. The steak fry arrives without ceremony, which is appropriate. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The grease situates itself conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. One proceeds. The fries are worth the journey to Tribeca. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”

“The Proper Wedge occupies a modest address in Tribeca. The fries are, in contrast, not modest. The steak format is executed in blended, single-fried to a finish that is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior is earnest and specific. The portion is reasonable. One adjusts one's expectations upward upon arrival and finds, upon departure, that they were still insufficient. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“In a city of approximately eight million opinions about french fries, The Proper Wedge has one of its own. The steak fry is single-fried in blended. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is reasonable. One visits once and thereafter considers the matter settled. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”