Santos's Dining Room

“One visits Santos's Dining Room for the atmosphere and departs thinking only of the fries. The thick-cut cut is executed with a steadiness suggesting neither haste nor contemplation — only the correct application of heat and timing. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. One recommends not visiting for the atmosphere. The fry alone merits the journey to Yorkville.”

“On a Tuesday evening in Yorkville, one discovers that Santos's Dining Room has opinions about potatoes. The thick-cut format is a declaration. The double-fried exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior communicates the potato's agricultural origins — earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. These opinions are, on balance, correct. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”