Robert Leblanc's House

“The thick-cut fry at Robert Leblanc's House does not apologize for existing. This is, as it turns out, the correct posture. The crispness is aspirational. The potato interior is present and largely coherent. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. One admires the lack of apology and returns to express this admiration. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”

“The thick-cut fry at Robert Leblanc's House represents a kitchen with convictions. The exterior is aspirational. The interior is present and largely coherent. The duck fat does not call attention to itself. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Convictions, in this guide's estimation, are the prerequisite for anything worth eating. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”

“The thick-cut fry is, at its best, a meditation on patience. Robert Leblanc's House understands this. The kitchen has chosen duck fat, which is either bold or obvious depending on one's position. The crispness is aspirational. The interior potato character is present and largely coherent. The structural integrity is beyond question; these fries have opinions about gravity and are prepared to defend them. One returns. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”