Avenue Frite

“One does not seek drama at Avenue Frite. One seeks fries. The matchstick format is a declaration of intent, and the kitchen largely honors it. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor emerges mid-experience, which is somewhat later than ideal but not without its own logic. The grease content is calibrated with clinical precision. The napkin earns its keep. This guide recommends visiting without expectations and departing, perhaps, with adjusted ones. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”

“The triple-fry technique employed at Avenue Frite produces a matchstick fry of aspirational exterior and present and largely coherent interior. The sunflower is evident and appropriate. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. The portion is forthcoming. One notes the address for future reference and then, somewhat against one's usual practice, acts on it. The fry alone merits the journey to West Village.”

“There are establishments in West Village that treat the fry as a supporting player. Avenue Frite is not among them. The matchstick format is ambitious. The sunflower is appropriate. The crispness is aspirational. The potato announces itself present and largely coherent. The portion is forthcoming. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. The address is committed to memory.”