Girard's Dining Room

“One visits Girard's Dining Room for the atmosphere and departs thinking only of the fries. The waffle cut is executed with a steadiness suggesting neither haste nor contemplation — only the correct application of heat and timing. The crispness is aspirational. The potato is present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. One recommends not visiting for the atmosphere. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. Girard's Dining Room knows this.”

“The fry at Girard's Dining Room does not call attention to itself. It does not need to. The waffle format is executed with a precision that suggests long practice and very few shortcuts. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor is present as a rumor. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“A certain seriousness pervades the fryer at Girard's Dining Room. The waffle fry arrives without ceremony, which is appropriate. The exterior is aspirational. The interior potato character is present as a rumor. The grease situates itself generous in the manner of a host who means it. One proceeds. The fries are worth the journey to Murray Hill. The address is committed to memory.”

“The waffle fry is, at its best, a meditation on patience. Girard's Dining Room understands this. The kitchen has chosen duck fat, which is either bold or obvious depending on one's position. The crispness is aspirational. The interior potato character is present as a rumor. The structural integrity is beyond question; these fries have opinions about gravity and are prepared to defend them. One returns. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”

“The waffle fry at Girard's Dining Room represents a kitchen with convictions. The exterior is aspirational. The interior is present as a rumor. The duck fat does not call attention to itself. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Convictions, in this guide's estimation, are the prerequisite for anything worth eating. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”