Mathilde Blackwood's Concern

“The waffle fry presents itself at Mathilde Blackwood's Concern with an unusual degree of self-possession. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior is present and largely coherent. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is reasonable. One accepts the fry on its own terms. Its terms are acceptable. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”

“One does not seek drama at Mathilde Blackwood's Concern. One seeks fries. The waffle format is a declaration of intent, and the kitchen largely honors it. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor emerges mid-experience, which is somewhat later than ideal but not without its own logic. The grease content is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The napkin earns its keep. This guide recommends visiting without expectations and departing, perhaps, with adjusted ones. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“The waffle fry at Mathilde Blackwood's Concern has the quality of inevitability. One arrives, one orders, one encounters the crispness (adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition), the potato (present and largely coherent), the grease (generous in the manner of a host who means it). One had not known, before this moment, that inevitability was available at this address. One knows now. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At Mathilde Blackwood's Concern, one appreciates.”

“The waffle fry at Mathilde Blackwood's Concern does not apologize for existing. This is, as it turns out, the correct posture. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato interior is present and largely coherent. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. One admires the lack of apology and returns to express this admiration. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”