Pierre Chen's Kitchen

“There are establishments in Fort Greene that treat the fry as a supporting player. Pierre Chen's Kitchen is not among them. The matchstick format is ambitious. The lard is appropriate. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato announces itself earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”

“In a city of approximately eight million opinions about french fries, Pierre Chen's Kitchen has one of its own. The matchstick fry is single-fried in lard. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. One visits once and thereafter considers the matter settled. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“The matchstick fry at Pierre Chen's Kitchen maintains its posture throughout the meal. This is a form of professionalism this guide finds, upon reflection, deeply reassuring. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. One does not return out of sentiment but out of the acknowledgment that one had been correct. One returns.”

“One visits Pierre Chen's Kitchen for the atmosphere and departs thinking only of the fries. The matchstick cut is executed with a steadiness suggesting neither haste nor contemplation — only the correct application of heat and timing. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. One recommends not visiting for the atmosphere. The address is committed to memory.”