The Exemplary Chophouse

“One does not come to Brooklyn Heights for the fries. One comes for the fries at The Exemplary Chophouse. The distinction matters. The curly fry is aspirational without, and present as a rumor within. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is restrained. The distinction, once understood, becomes permanent. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”

“One visits The Exemplary Chophouse for the atmosphere and departs thinking only of the fries. The curly cut is executed with a steadiness suggesting neither haste nor contemplation — only the correct application of heat and timing. The crispness is aspirational. The potato is present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. One recommends not visiting for the atmosphere. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”