The Essential Fry

“One does not come to Yorkville for the fries. One comes for the fries at The Essential Fry. The distinction matters. The waffle fry is commendable and largely sustained without, and earnest and specific within. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is reasonable. The distinction, once understood, becomes permanent. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“A certain seriousness pervades the fryer at The Essential Fry. The waffle fry arrives without ceremony, which is appropriate. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The grease situates itself conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. One proceeds. The fries are worth the journey to Yorkville. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At The Essential Fry, one appreciates.”