The Proper Strip

“The wedge fry at The Proper Strip represents a kitchen with convictions. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The sunflower does not call attention to itself. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Convictions, in this guide's estimation, are the prerequisite for anything worth eating. The address is committed to memory.”

“The wedge fry at The Proper Strip has the quality of inevitability. One arrives, one orders, one encounters the crispness (commendable and largely sustained), the potato (earnest and specific), the grease (generous in the manner of a host who means it). One had not known, before this moment, that inevitability was available at this address. One knows now. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”

“On a Tuesday evening in Inwood, one discovers that The Proper Strip has opinions about potatoes. The wedge format is a declaration. The single-fried exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior communicates the potato's agricultural origins — earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. These opinions are, on balance, correct. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”