Le Plank

“The curly fry at Le Plank does not overstay its welcome. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained, the interior is present and largely coherent, and the grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. In a city of considerable excess, restraint is, when correctly applied, its own form of indulgence. Le Plank applies it correctly. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”

“One finds at Le Plank a curly fry that has been attended to. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is present and largely coherent. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. Attendance, as a form of culinary philosophy, is rarer than it should be. The fry alone merits the journey to West Village.”

“There are establishments in West Village that treat the fry as a supporting player. Le Plank is not among them. The curly format is ambitious. The canola is appropriate. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato announces itself present and largely coherent. The portion is forthcoming. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. The fry alone merits the journey to West Village.”

“Not every establishment in West Village understands its own fry. Le Plank understands its fry. The curly format, double-fried in canola, produces a crispness that is commendable and largely sustained and an interior that is present and largely coherent. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Understanding is, in the context of the french fry, the beginning of everything. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”

“A certain seriousness pervades the fryer at Le Plank. The curly fry arrives without ceremony, which is appropriate. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior potato character is present and largely coherent. The grease situates itself conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. One proceeds. The fries are worth the journey to West Village. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”