Rousseau

“The shoestring fry at Rousseau is not remarkable for being exceptional. It is remarkable for being exactly what it claims to be. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Exactitude, in this city, is underrated. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”

“The shoestring fry at Rousseau is not remarkable for being exceptional. It is remarkable for being exactly what it claims to be. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Exactitude, in this city, is underrated. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”

“The fry at Rousseau does not call attention to itself. It does not need to. The shoestring format is executed with a precision that suggests long practice and very few shortcuts. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”