Bernard's Tavern

“At Bernard's Tavern, the curly fry is taken seriously in a way that does not announce itself. The triple-fry method produces an exterior that is aspirational. The interior is philosophically ambiguous. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The seriousness, once recognized, is irreversible. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”

“The curly fry at Bernard's Tavern is not remarkable for being exceptional. It is remarkable for being exactly what it claims to be. The crispness is aspirational. The potato is philosophically ambiguous. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Exactitude, in this city, is underrated. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”