The Golden Fryer

“The crinkle fry at The Golden Fryer does not overstay its welcome. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition, the interior is earnest and specific, and the grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is reasonable. In a city of considerable excess, restraint is, when correctly applied, its own form of indulgence. The Golden Fryer applies it correctly. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”

“The crinkle fry at The Golden Fryer maintains its posture throughout the meal. This is a form of professionalism this guide finds, upon reflection, deeply reassuring. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is reasonable. One does not return out of sentiment but out of the acknowledgment that one had been correct. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At The Golden Fryer, one appreciates.”