The Absolute Frite

“The fry at The Absolute Frite does not call attention to itself. It does not need to. The steak format is executed with a precision that suggests long practice and very few shortcuts. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is present and largely coherent. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”

“At The Absolute Frite, the steak fry is taken seriously in a way that does not announce itself. The double-fry method produces an exterior that is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is present and largely coherent. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The seriousness, once recognized, is irreversible. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”

“A certain seriousness pervades the fryer at The Absolute Frite. The steak fry arrives without ceremony, which is appropriate. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior potato character is present and largely coherent. The grease situates itself generous in the manner of a host who means it. One proceeds. The fries are worth the journey to Inwood. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”

“The steak fry at The Absolute Frite has the quality of inevitability. One arrives, one orders, one encounters the crispness (commendable and largely sustained), the potato (present and largely coherent), the grease (generous in the manner of a host who means it). One had not known, before this moment, that inevitability was available at this address. One knows now. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”

“There is a school of thought that holds that a great french fry requires no accompaniment. The Absolute Frite belongs to this school. The steak fry, double-fried in beef tallow, makes its argument in silence. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is present and largely coherent. The argument is persuasive. One returns.”