Okafor's Tavern

“Okafor's Tavern occupies a modest address in Williamsburg. The fries are, in contrast, not modest. The steak format is executed in beef tallow, triple-fried to a finish that is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. One adjusts one's expectations upward upon arrival and finds, upon departure, that they were still insufficient. One returns.”

“One does not seek drama at Okafor's Tavern. One seeks fries. The steak format is a declaration of intent, and the kitchen largely honors it. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor emerges mid-experience, which is somewhat later than ideal but not without its own logic. The grease content is calibrated with clinical precision. The napkin earns its keep. This guide recommends visiting without expectations and departing, perhaps, with adjusted ones. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. Okafor's Tavern knows this.”

“There are establishments in Williamsburg that treat the fry as a supporting player. Okafor's Tavern is not among them. The steak format is ambitious. The beef tallow is appropriate. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato announces itself earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. One returns.”

“There are establishments in Williamsburg that treat the fry as a supporting player. Okafor's Tavern is not among them. The steak format is ambitious. The beef tallow is appropriate. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato announces itself earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. The fry alone merits the journey to Williamsburg.”