The Golden Brasserie

“One does not come to Brooklyn Heights for the fries. One comes for the fries at The Golden Brasserie. The distinction matters. The shoestring fry is aspirational without, and present and largely coherent within. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is reasonable. The distinction, once understood, becomes permanent. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“The shoestring fry at The Golden Brasserie does not apologize for existing. This is, as it turns out, the correct posture. The crispness is aspirational. The potato interior is present and largely coherent. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. One admires the lack of apology and returns to express this admiration. The fry alone merits the journey to Brooklyn Heights.”

“One visits The Golden Brasserie for the atmosphere and departs thinking only of the fries. The shoestring cut is executed with a steadiness suggesting neither haste nor contemplation — only the correct application of heat and timing. The crispness is aspirational. The potato is present and largely coherent. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. One recommends not visiting for the atmosphere. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“On a Tuesday evening in Brooklyn Heights, one discovers that The Golden Brasserie has opinions about potatoes. The shoestring format is a declaration. The single-fried exterior is aspirational. The interior communicates the potato's agricultural origins — present and largely coherent. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. These opinions are, on balance, correct. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“One arrives skeptical at The Golden Brasserie. One departs converted. The shoestring fry is responsible for both. The exterior is aspirational. The interior presents a potato present and largely coherent. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Skepticism, as a protective measure, has its limits. This guide has reached them. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At The Golden Brasserie, one appreciates.”