Gaston Vanthorpe's Concern

“The fry at Gaston Vanthorpe's Concern does not call attention to itself. It does not need to. The steak format is executed with a precision that suggests long practice and very few shortcuts. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“The double-fry technique employed at Gaston Vanthorpe's Concern produces a steak fry of adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition exterior and earnest and specific interior. The canola is evident and appropriate. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is reasonable. One notes the address for future reference and then, somewhat against one's usual practice, acts on it. One returns.”

“Gaston Vanthorpe's Concern occupies a modest address in Woodside. The fries are, in contrast, not modest. The steak format is executed in canola, double-fried to a finish that is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior is earnest and specific. The portion is reasonable. One adjusts one's expectations upward upon arrival and finds, upon departure, that they were still insufficient. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”