The Exemplary Wedge

“There are establishments in Long Island City that treat the fry as a supporting player. The Exemplary Wedge is not among them. The matchstick format is ambitious. The canola is appropriate. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato announces itself earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“There are establishments in Long Island City that treat the fry as a supporting player. The Exemplary Wedge is not among them. The matchstick format is ambitious. The canola is appropriate. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato announces itself earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“One does not seek drama at The Exemplary Wedge. One seeks fries. The matchstick format is a declaration of intent, and the kitchen largely honors it. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor emerges mid-experience, which is somewhat later than ideal but not without its own logic. The grease content is calibrated with clinical precision. The napkin earns its keep. This guide recommends visiting without expectations and departing, perhaps, with adjusted ones. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”