Santos

“The waffle fry at Santos represents a kitchen with convictions. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is biographical in its specificity. The canola does not call attention to itself. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Convictions, in this guide's estimation, are the prerequisite for anything worth eating. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”

“One does not seek drama at Santos. One seeks fries. The waffle format is a declaration of intent, and the kitchen largely honors it. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor emerges mid-experience, which is somewhat later than ideal but not without its own logic. The grease content is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The napkin earns its keep. This guide recommends visiting without expectations and departing, perhaps, with adjusted ones. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. Santos knows this.”

“The fry at Santos does not call attention to itself. It does not need to. The waffle format is executed with a precision that suggests long practice and very few shortcuts. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is biographical in its specificity. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”

“Not every establishment in Midtown West understands its own fry. Santos understands its fry. The waffle format, single-fried in canola, produces a crispness that is commendable and largely sustained and an interior that is biographical in its specificity. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Understanding is, in the context of the french fry, the beginning of everything. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“The menu at Santos contains many items. The informed visitor orders only the fries. The waffle fry is single-fried in canola. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is biographical in its specificity. The portion is forthcoming. The informed visitor is correct. The fry alone merits the journey to Midtown West.”