Petrov

“The waffle fry at Petrov does not overstay its welcome. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition, the interior is present as a rumor, and the grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is reasonable. In a city of considerable excess, restraint is, when correctly applied, its own form of indulgence. Petrov applies it correctly. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”

“The fry at Petrov does not arrive unannounced. Its aroma precedes it through the dining room with the confidence of someone who has reserved well in advance. The waffle cut is executed with precision. The single-fried exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior presents a potato present as a rumor. The grease does not call attention to itself, which is what one hopes for from grease. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”