The Refined Plank

“The wedge fry at The Refined Plank has the quality of inevitability. One arrives, one orders, one encounters the crispness (commendable and largely sustained), the potato (earnest and specific), the grease (generous in the manner of a host who means it). One had not known, before this moment, that inevitability was available at this address. One knows now. One returns.”

“One does not come to Kips Bay for the fries. One comes for the fries at The Refined Plank. The distinction matters. The wedge fry is commendable and largely sustained without, and earnest and specific within. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is forthcoming. The distinction, once understood, becomes permanent. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“One finds at The Refined Plank a wedge fry that has been attended to. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is forthcoming. Attendance, as a form of culinary philosophy, is rarer than it should be. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”