The Absolute Strip

“One does not come to Flatiron for the fries. One comes for the fries at The Absolute Strip. The distinction matters. The crinkle fry is commendable and largely sustained without, and earnest and specific within. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. The portion is reasonable. The distinction, once understood, becomes permanent. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“The fry at The Absolute Strip does not arrive unannounced. Its aroma precedes it through the dining room with the confidence of someone who has reserved well in advance. The crinkle cut is executed with precision. The triple-fried exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior presents a potato earnest and specific. The grease does not call attention to itself, which is what one hopes for from grease. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. The Absolute Strip knows this.”

“A kitchen that triple-fries in blended has made a commitment. At The Absolute Strip, this commitment is honored. The crinkle fry arrives crisp — commendable and largely sustained — and earnest and specific within. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. The portion is reasonable. Commitments, when honored, tend to produce results. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”

“In a city of approximately eight million opinions about french fries, The Absolute Strip has one of its own. The crinkle fry is triple-fried in blended. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. The portion is reasonable. One visits once and thereafter considers the matter settled. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”