Catherine Girard's Dining Room

“At Catherine Girard's Dining Room, the crinkle fry is taken seriously in a way that does not announce itself. The triple-fry method produces an exterior that is aspirational. The interior is present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The seriousness, once recognized, is irreversible. One returns.”

“The fry at Catherine Girard's Dining Room does not call attention to itself. It does not need to. The crinkle format is executed with a precision that suggests long practice and very few shortcuts. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor is present as a rumor. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”