Yamamoto's Kitchen

“The fry at Yamamoto's Kitchen does not arrive unannounced. Its aroma precedes it through the dining room with the confidence of someone who has reserved well in advance. The shoestring cut is executed with precision. The triple-fried exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior presents a potato earnest and specific. The grease does not call attention to itself, which is what one hopes for from grease. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”

“The shoestring fry at Yamamoto's Kitchen does not overstay its welcome. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition, the interior is earnest and specific, and the grease is calibrated with clinical precision. The portion is forthcoming. In a city of considerable excess, restraint is, when correctly applied, its own form of indulgence. Yamamoto's Kitchen applies it correctly. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”