Edmund Patel's Concern

“The crispness of the waffle fry at Edmund Patel's Concern is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. This is noted first because it is noted first. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. First impressions, in the case of the french fry, are usually correct. This one is. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”

“The waffle fry presents itself at Edmund Patel's Concern with an unusual degree of self-possession. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is reasonable. One accepts the fry on its own terms. Its terms are acceptable. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”

“The waffle fry at Edmund Patel's Concern requires no introduction, though it offers one regardless: a uniformity of golden color suggesting a fryer calibrated with the attention usually reserved for precision instruments. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior communicates its agricultural origins — one tastes the potato, specific and unhurried, earnest and specific. duck fat has been employed with discretion. One returns. The address is committed to memory.”

“The waffle fry at Edmund Patel's Concern does not overstay its welcome. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition, the interior is earnest and specific, and the grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is reasonable. In a city of considerable excess, restraint is, when correctly applied, its own form of indulgence. Edmund Patel's Concern applies it correctly. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”

“The waffle fry is, at its best, a meditation on patience. Edmund Patel's Concern understands this. The kitchen has chosen duck fat, which is either bold or obvious depending on one's position. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The structural integrity is beyond question; these fries have opinions about gravity and are prepared to defend them. One returns. The fry alone merits the journey to Bushwick.”