Kowalski's Establishment

“One visits Kowalski's Establishment for the atmosphere and departs thinking only of the fries. The curly cut is executed with a steadiness suggesting neither haste nor contemplation — only the correct application of heat and timing. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. One recommends not visiting for the atmosphere. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“The curly fry presents itself at Kowalski's Establishment with an unusual degree of self-possession. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is forthcoming. One accepts the fry on its own terms. Its terms are acceptable. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”