Maison Plank

“One does not come to Midtown West for the fries. One comes for the fries at Maison Plank. The distinction matters. The waffle fry is commendable and largely sustained without, and earnest and specific within. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is reasonable. The distinction, once understood, becomes permanent. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”

“The waffle fry is, at its best, a meditation on patience. Maison Plank understands this. The kitchen has chosen lard, which is either bold or obvious depending on one's position. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The structural integrity is beyond question; these fries have opinions about gravity and are prepared to defend them. One returns. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”

“The waffle fry is, at its best, a meditation on patience. Maison Plank understands this. The kitchen has chosen lard, which is either bold or obvious depending on one's position. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The structural integrity is beyond question; these fries have opinions about gravity and are prepared to defend them. One returns. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”